Fabric weight is the single decision that most changes how a garment feels, how it drapes and how much it costs to ship. It is also the one buyers most often specify by habit rather than by intent.
What weight actually does
Heavier fabric holds structure. It stands away from the body, hides construction imperfections and reads as premium on a hanger. It also shrinks more in the first wash, takes longer to dry, and costs more per unit and per kilo in freight. Lighter fabric drapes, layers and packs well, but shows every seam and every print edge.
Match the weight to the season and the market
A heavyweight hoodie sold in a cold-climate streetwear market and a lightweight hoodie sold in a warm-climate market are different products with the same sketch. Decide the season first, then the weight, then the fit. Trying to make one body work for both usually produces a garment that is too warm for one market and too thin for the other.
Ask for the swatch, not just the number
Two fabrics at the same weight can feel completely different depending on yarn count, knitting gauge and finishing. Brushed fleece feels softer against the skin than loopback at the same weight; enzyme wash changes hand-feel without changing the spec sheet. Always approve a physical swatch rather than a number on a page.
Plan for shrinkage
Cotton knit relaxes and shrinks. If the garment must hold its length after washing, specify pre-shrunk fabric or plan a wash test before bulk. This is cheaper to decide at sampling than to discover in a warehouse.
Where weight shows up in cost
Heavier fabric means more yarn per garment, more time in washing and drying, and higher freight. If a target price is fixed, the honest conversation is usually about weight or about a simpler construction — not about squeezing the fabric supplier.
A workable default
For a first collection, choose one weight per category and keep it consistent across colourways. Consistency makes the range look deliberate, simplifies production planning, and gives you a baseline to compare against when you add a second weight later.